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Kirkcudbright with its surrounding countryside is a
gently enticing place. The story of its artists' colony
is full of examples of artists arriving on a summer
painting visit and staying on for the rest of their
lives.
The reasons why Kirkcudbright attracted so many painters
and became an artists' colony are not difficult to discern.
It was, and remains, perhaps the most attractive small
town in Scotland with impressive architecture. There
is the High Street with its ancient Tollbooth and the
18th century town houses enlivened by their variously
and sometimes eccentrically painted frontages, the myriad
colours giving the street an exotic, almost continental,
atmosphere. Between the houses are cobbled, crooked
wynds, many of which contain artist's and craftsmen's
studios. McLellan's Castle an imposing sixteenth century
ruin in the middle of the town, dominates the skyline.
When E.A.Taylor asked Hornel why he thought Kirkcudbright
was so popular with artists he said, "Well, it's
a fine old town and not too big, but big enough to keep
you from vegetating."
Taylor, venturing his own answer to the question wrote
that as well as being one of the most uniquely beautiful
towns in Scotland, 'it is the nearness of unspoilt Nature
that makes it the artist's paradise that it is... not
many steps from your doorway the river, the sea pastoral
lands, woodland rugged hills moorlands and glens are
all within easy reach.' The widespread adoption of painting
en plein air in the latter nineteenth century, influenced
by French Impressionism, was also practiced earlier
in Scotland by McCulloch, Bough and McTaggart, moving
the artist out of his studio and into the open air,
spending more time with his subject matter.
The other principal artists' colonies in Great Britain
of the same period - Newlyn, Staithes and St. Ives -
are all like Kirkcudbright, coastal towns with fishing
fleets. The fishing industry is a clean, relatively
non polluting, activity which creates an ever changing
scene. The proximity of the sea gives a pellucid transparency,
although the white light of St. Ives is very different
from the softer light of the Solway. The coast -both
to the east and the west of Kirkcudbright - enjoys some
fascinating variety, from the small sandy coves with
farmland gently inclining to the shore, to the dramatic
rocky bays and cliffs as in James Faed's Ravenshall.
The most enduring imagery of the Kirkcudbright School
involves the woods and woodland streams of Galloway,
with cattle, as in the most influential painting of
the School, Henry's Galloway Landscape. Other timeless
images depict children and animals, for example Hornel's
Galloway Idyll, its edgy atmosphere created by the slightly
menacing goats watching the adolescent frolicking of
the girls.
The variety of the landscape around Kirkcudbright,
and the changing colour of the trees and vegetation
with the seasons, was a rich source of subject matter
for the painters. Most found it richly inspirational
but there was the occasional dissenter. S.J. Peploe,
writing to his wife in late spring of 1931, complained
of the 'lush grass and green trees - you can see nothing
for leaves - no distance, nothing for the imagination'
and, a generation later, Donald Moodie, whenever a painting
trip to Kirkcudbright was mooted, would refuse and groan
'too green, too green!' William Robson had completely
the opposite reaction, often pointing out admiringly
to his granddaughter 'all the wonderful greens'.
It is autumn, which one most associates with paintings
of the Galloway landscape, most memorably in George
Henry's magnificent painting of 1889. The gorgeous,
and at that time shocking oranges and reds of Hornel's
best period in the early 1 890s were a response to the
autumn colouring he found around Kirkcudbright. The
farmland was not intensively fanned; ancient woodlands
and small copses grow next to undulating fields with
gorse covered knolls bounded by unkempt hedges making
for a land scape that is enchanting.
This 'green and golden province', as E.A.Taylor called
Galloway, would not have attracted so many artists if
it had not been relatively accessible. From 1864 under
the aegis of the Glasgow and South Western Railway,
Kirkcudbright had its own railway station and appropriately
it was a terminus. It was not just a stop on the way
to somewhere else, it was in fact the destination. Edinburgh
and Glasgow, the two cities where the major exhibitions
and the art dealers were to be found, could be reached
in a few hours. Conversely, it became a much easier
place to visit. Peploe, again writing to his wife in
1931, from the Selkirk Arms Hotel, complained, ' I would
go mad if I bad to live here.' He did not have to because
he made his frequent trips to Kirkcudbright from Edinburgh
by train
During the decade and a half that Kirkcudbright became
what was called the 'Glasgow School in the Country',
most of the Glasgow Boys came to the south west to paint
This would probably not have been the case if Hornel,
who was one of the most important and artistically adventurous
of their number, had not made Kirkcudbright his home.
George Henry would return to Glasgow full of enthusiasm
for the place and everyone could see, from the paintings
that he and Hornel exhibited at home and abroad to such
acclaim, what an intensely inspirational place Kirkcudbright
must be.
Hornel, more convivial and nothing of the curmudgeon
that he was later to become, was responsible for both
the coterie of artists who made Kirkcudbright their
home -MacGeorge, Mouncey, Blacklock and Hanna Clark
amongst the - and the major artists who visited such
as Henry, Guthrie, Gauld and W.Y. McGregor. Hornel was
a charismatic and avant-garde figure in those days,
acting as a magnet to Kirkcudbright in much the same
way as Gauguin had been to Pont Aven.
The major catalyst for the arrival of artists in the
Stewartry, and the general acceptance of the fact that
the life of a painter could be a respectable and potentially
lucrative career, was the phenomenon of the Faed family
of Barlae Mill near Gatehouse of Fleet. The fact that
they came from an unpretentious working family, with
no apparent artistic leanings previously, must have
made others aware that the art world was not just open
to expensively educated middle class people from the
cities.
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